At The Castel Dell'Ovo

The Castel Dell'Ovo, means Egg Castle. Not too romantic sounding to me, but it is a prominent landmark in Bay of Napoli. Right across from the popular tourist hotels on the waterfront, I actually lived across the street for almost a month and never toured through the castle. Today was the day, so we walked over to the castle to look around.

Entrance to Castel Dell'Ovo

First you need to know the story behind the castle.

Commune Napoli


"Castel dell' Ovo stands on the islet of Megaride. According to one of the most fanciful Neapolitan legends, the name of this castle derives from the egg that the Latin poet Virgil apparently hid in a cage placed in the dungeons of the castle. The egg was locked up and kept hidden because "the fortune of the Sea Castle depended on that egg".


Wikipedia says

The island of Megaride was where Greek colonists from Cumae founded the original nucleus of the city in the 6th century BC. Its location affords it an excellent view of the Naples waterfront and the surrounding area. In the 1st century BC the Roman patrician Lucius Licinius Lucullus built the magnificent villa Castellum Lucullanum on the site. Fortified by Valentinian III in the mid-5th century, it was the place to which the last western Roman emperor, Romulus Augustulus, was exiled in 476.^[1] Eugippius founded a monastery on the site after 492.

The remains of the Roman-era structures and later fortifications were demolished by local residents in the 9th century to prevent their use by Saracen raiders. The first castle on the site was built by the Normans in the 12th century. The importance of the Castel dell'Ovo began to decline when king Charles I of Anjou built a new castle,Castel Nuovo, and moved his court there. Castel dell'Ovo became the seat of the Royal Chamber and of the State Treasury. The current appearance dates from the Aragonese domination (15th century). It was struck by French and Spanish artillery during the Italian Wars; in the Neapolitan Republic of 1799 its guns were used by rebels to deter the philo-Bourbon population of the city.

In the 19th century a small fishing village (Borgo Marinari) developed around the castle's eastern wall. This village remains, now known for its marina and restaurants.

What it is today

Without enough Italian language to read and understand all the signs about, we can merely show you photos at this point and give you some of our first hand observations.

The castle is extremely compact. By castle standards -- at least in my own imagination of what a castle should be -- this one is very small. Looks are deceiving however, when you get inside there are amazing passage ways all over and multiple levels. Tourist access is really only to the outer walkways and the one upper floor. There are at least two other levels visible that we could not access. I believe some of the rooms on the lower level are used now for special events.

This passage way is a gradual climb of steps but with very shallow rise. We speculated that a horse and cart could make this grade and because of how wide the path is, was probably used as a main passageway for bringing supplies and arms into the castle.

Close up of the ceiling supports

Perfectly arched contours on these ancient walls

The stones used to build this castle are huge. I can't fathom how they were quarried, moved, cut and placed for this structure. Several comparisons of us next to the walls give you perspective to see how thick and heavy they must be. Keep in mind, this latest version of the castle was 16th century, so think about the technology available at the time. Today they stand firm and straight as they were placed 600 years ago. Wow, what an amazing feat of engineering! What do we build today meant to last 600 years?

From the main passage are dozens of narrow, winding staircases leading to where, we don't know. 


The views of from the castle are beautiful. From a defensive and strategic point of view, this was an ideal location as no one could "sneak up" on you. Being situated in a deep water bay, it was also ideal of shipping and trade.

All good castles have gun ports ( or perhaps they are for archers?) ringing the outer edges. These are cleverly designed so the inside access is much larger that the outside openings.

There is also an upper level with canons at the ready.

Roof top canon battlement

View southeast from the castle to the adjacent area with marina and restaurants

After the tour of the Castle, we went next door to one of the many little cafes that ring the castle. This marina has some very beautiful boats and is a nice location to pass away a sunny afternoon.

Pavers typical of all historic Naples

View of the castle wall from the Marina cafe

Enjoying Sunday afternoon

At the Park

Villa Communale is a beautiful city park along the waterfront of Naples. It used to be the private gardens of the Princess who lived in our palazzo (palace). The park is over 1 km long and has the traditional things you would expect to see in a park: walking paths, gardens, fountains, statuary, pigeons, people riding bikes, people walking dogs, and then of course the kiddie play area with rides and snack bar. You can rent go carts, and foot-pedal powered carriages. This park also has booths setup every Sunday for local merchants to bring in produce, meats, cheeses, and other food stuffs.

History
It was first built as a paved road between Piazza Vittoria and Piedigrotta by the Spanish viceroy Duke of Medinaceli in 1697 who adorned it with thirteen fountains and two rows of willow trees on each side. Later, it became a Royal Promenade known as Villa Reale and sitting directly on the shore, provided a much needed buffer between the hustle and bustle of the city to the north and the tranquil sea to the south.

… between the street and the sea, is the villa Reale the fashionable promenade. On one side the waves kiss the wall, and if you like you may sit for hours in the seats provided and dream of coral graves and purple mullets. Or you may walk in nicely-graveled paths, beneath palms, orange trees and bowers of blooming laurestinas, even though it be March. The whole air is full of perfume, and the promenades are thronged with the flush and the fair. Dick Tinto, New York Times, January 22, 1858 

That however was in the days when women donned gowns to stroll through the park and when only the rich, the royals, and the famous graced its promenade. That is except for once a year on September 9th during the Festa di Piedigrotta, when all citizens were welcomed into the park, provided of course that they wore shoes. The Neapolitans still flock to Villa Comunale to celebrate that festival today.

Quoting from Napoli Unplugged website



Today
Johnnie and I are privileged to live right across the street from this lovely park. They do not water in the summer so when we first came, everything was brown and rather dusty. But with the rains this Fall, the the plants and trees have turned green again and the dust settled so it is quite lovely. We took some photos last Sunday which do not do it justice but how can you capture on film the spirit of a place?

One of the many fountains

Many walking paths throughout the park

Lots of shade trees

The park is part street market, part amusement park, and part botanical gardens. It might be compared to Balboa Park in San Diego only on a smaller scale. The very old Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn of Naples is an aquarium built in 1872 by the German scientist Anton Dohr (seen in the background of photo above). Small by today's standards, this aquarium is still functioning and displays fish from the surrounding waters. Marine research is still performed here. Johnnie went through this aquarium one day and it took him about 20 min. to see it all. He was expecting it to be on multiple floors but when he tried to go upstairs one of the guards shook his finger and said "No, no, no".

Old and young alike use this park. We enjoyed a leisurely stroll, sitting on the park bench watching people, and of course, feeding the ever-present park pigeons.

Pedal powered vehicle for those who want exercise

Battery powered child size go carts

We find these go carts on the sidewalks outside the park wherever the children leave them. The park attendants patiently go around and retrieve them all at the end of day.

This is a very neat bandstand with stained glass dome. It was chained off last Sunday but presumably is open for special events, weddings, concerts, etc. Looking at the inside of the roof structure, I thought it was an interesting design and construction. The frame and supports are all metal -- steel I guess -- and the decorative edges are very fine and lacey.

There are lots of statues in the park placed by during the late 1800's and early 1900's that honor different heroes of Naples. This particular statue has no inscription so I don't know who he is, however, this is housed in it's very own building as seen in the photo below.

In addition to all previously mentioned is a roller skating rink, swing set and jungle gym, and an assortment of antiques and collectibles as well as some tourist junk. We have only explored part of this lovely park and look forward to many fine Sunday afternoon strolls here in future

At the Street Markets

Street markets are everywhere, tucked into narrow lanes, they are setup and torn down daily in several areas around our neighborhood. Some are mainly soft goods, some food stuffs. 


Naples
Johnnie discovered the other day that some of the vendors are illegally selling (without a license or paying the appropriate taxes to the government). He was walking along the street when suddenly there was a rapid commotion of people breaking down their carts and running for the allies quickly. The Guardia di Finanza who I characterize as the modern day tax collectors, raid these areas where the illegal street vendors gather. It seems to be a regular occurrence and as soon as the Guardia have moved on, the street vendors are back. These people have small, very portable displays.


Other street vendors are of a more permanent nature and must pay their taxes since they don't appear to be harassed by the Guardia, and they are in the same locations day after day. Here in our neighborhood, they setup by 9am and generally are shutting down by 1pm. They have this process down to a fine science and can do it in short order.

This one street near us has mostly clothing and fabrics. Their merchandise looks to be good quality, so I will be checking them out in future.

One side of the street is all booths

Dodging scooters and cars while you shop is part of the experience

I believe it is acceptable to bargain. I noticed very few price tags which always suggests to me that things are negotiable. 


Martina Franca
This past week I traveled to Grottaglie on business. We stayed in Martina Franca because it is a much nicer place for Johnnie during the day. It is a very clean, traditional Italian town with lots of places to walk, shops, coffee bars, and many things close at hand.


Martina Franca Taranto Italy


The street market in Martina Franca is a traveling market that goes between several small towns in the area. They are in MF on Wednesday mornings. When I left for work at 7:30am they were already setting up and I had to wind my way carefully through the booths since it basically takes over the streets for several blocks around our hotel. It is a huge market compared to the small ones around us in Napoli.


Johnnie got out and wandered and took all these photos I will share with you. It is an amazing market and the streets were crowded with people from 8 until 1pm. Prices seem to be good and everything from women's clothing to fabric to fish were for sale.

Street market in Martina Franca

Lots of fresh vegetables for sale

Johnnie bought a shirt and a couple fly swatters. As always it is the food that really amazes us though. Prices are Euros per kilo, so you have to do a bit of math to compare with what we pay. But even without the math, street market prices are lots cheaper and the food is fresh, grown locally.

Many varieties of fagioli

http://maps.google.com/maps?client=safari&rls=en&q=martina+franca+map&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x1346530a3eb94a63:0xc713613896281a7f,Martina+Franca+Taranto,+Italy&ei=0lDHTo_yN4vRsgaChInvBg&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CDAQ8gEwAA

At the Department Store

I went on a mission to find a pair of gray slacks for work, replenish some cosmetics I need, and stop at the dry cleaners. Since we live in an upper middle class neighborhood, in a highly popular tourist area, I have been aghast at the prices in the local shops in my area. True it is fun to window shop Gucci, Armani, Feragamo, etc. but 675 Euro for a purse? I don't think so. At last I got a recommendation from an Italian friend of a department store in the neighborhood which has reasonably priced clothes, and my sizes.

Sizes in Italy
First of all, I want to warn you that your size in Italian clothes will be more than double your US size. If you are a person who shops by the numbers, you will have heart failure! I believe it is the millimeter equivalent of inches by either waist, hip, or bust, but who knows! I just kept on trying on things until I found something that fits. Of course everything is always too long for me, even in the US, so my next stop will be at the tailor's to get a hem in my new pants.

The styles are really not cut for my body shape. They are really more for taller, slender and less curvaceous body types. While I did purchase slacks, they are truly not a good fit, just adequate. I will continue my search for a store that really has clothing for my body and taste in clothing.

Fall Fashions and Styles
The colors are all very muted. Black remains the all time popular color, but gray, taupe, and brown are in abundance as well. I love the sweaters here. They are everywhere and in really soft cashmere, angora and silks. Here are a couple examples of the sweaters we are seeing.

Lots of lavender, purple, burgundy colors this season

This particular department store is called Upim. It is about the size of a Kohls although without the housewares and stuff, just purely clothing, cosmetics and accessories. There is a men's department below but I wasn't up for the stairs so didn't check it out. I consider their prices reasonable, about what I would pay at a Penneys or Sears in the US.

Too bad I ran out of Euros before I got to this department!

There were a couple of sales clerks that spoke a little English, so that was helpful. Johnnie is holding up another beautiful sweater that looks like something my daughter Michelle would wear. It is tunic length and with a nice belt and over leggings or even a pretty skirt, this would be nice.

Tunic/dress

Another find on this trip is a really nice wool coat. I thought of both my girls when I saw this one.

The Italians are already in the their heavy winter coats, even though it is still in the 50s and 60s during the day. The stores are full of beautiful wool coats and lots of puffy down-type jackets. And of course, we are seeing boots galore along with lots of scarves everywhere we look.

Other stores
While out roaming around, I had to take a picture of Yamamay. This is a chain I see everywhere around. It is a trendy teen and young adult clothing shop. This was a cute display for pajamas.

And what great fortune, there is a brand new Apple store nearby. We bought our adaptor for the TV there just last week. Now, you would expect the Apple store to be called the Apple store, or, if you do a literal translation, apple in Italian is mele, so perhaps the Mele store, or even the M store? But not so, for some reason it is called the R Store. Go figure.

Apple Store in Napoli

Our first Italian Dinner Party

Last Monday evening we were invited to the home of some Italian friends for dinner. We arrived a 8pm and ate pretty quickly after that.We are still unused to the late dining hour but slowly, slowly we will adjust.

The Meal
We had three courses: main dish, vegetables, and dessert.

The main dish, served first with bread was a delicious hot spinach and cheese dish (get the name of it). Wine accompanied the main dish -- two varieties of red that came from their family vineyards-- and also water. It was very delicious but what the hostess described as simple food.

The second course consisted of several vegetable and cheese dishes. Pepperadella, a variety of very sweet peppers cut in chunks and sautéed in olive oil and garlic -- very good! Sliced butternut squash (they call it pumpkin), which was grilled and then put in oil and served cold. This was also very good. Also eggplant, prepared similarly, grilled first then put in oil and served cold. Not sure if the grilling was done on the stove top, an actual charcoal grill, or on a grill type pan in the oven (my oven has a grill setting). I will ask. We also had a very tasty ricotta cheese served with slices of tomato and crackers on a plate. One very gigantic piece of fresh mozzarella on a plate (a mound about the size of a salad plate), which was the thing they all liked the most, and everyone simply cut off a chunk and put on their own plate.

Dessert was tiramisu but nothing like what we have in the Seattle area. This was a rich, dark cake with a very thin fruit filling (not sure what kind). We had a very small glass of a nut liquer also which was one they made themselves from hazelnuts.

The Courtesy
The family is so loving and kind to us. They are really sent by God to welcome us to Italy. The mother speaks fluent English, and the oldest daughter also (in her early twenties). The second daughter also speaks pretty good English (she is in late teens I believe). The father and youngest daughter speak a few words of English is all. The table seating was planned so the people who spoke English were distributed around the table and there was someone to translate back and forth for us. At one point in the conversation, the oldest daughter went around the table and sat next to her father to translate for him because we had been speaking rapidly and telling stories that he was missing. It was so nice to see a daughter care so much for her Papa that way.

The family loves each other a lot, you can just tell. The children are very affectionate to their parents, and they do kind things for each other. The children all sat through the meal and focused their entire attention on the guests (us). We wondered to ourselves as we left, how many American homes would be this way? We certainly know several families where the children would have left the table as soon as they could politely get away, or would have sat there and texted their friends while the adults were talking. I believe they really value people relationships here and that it doesn't matter what age groups those relationships cross.

There was no prayer before the meal. This family was raised Catholic but I don't believe they are regularly attending mass.

In total we were there about 2 1/2 hrs. We ate slowly and talked a lot. After dinner they got out some maps of the US and we talked about places we lived and visited, about Johnnie driving from Washington to Kansas in two days -- they thought that was totally crazy -- and then they showed us places they have traveled in the Carribean and South America. The two oldest daughters have also visited New York. I believe they have traveled more than most Italians, and certainly a lot more than most Americans.

This was a lovely evening we hated to end. We hope there will be many more like this as we make Italian friends and can begin to host them in our home as well.

When I get the recipes in future, I will add them to my blog.

101 Things to do with a bidet

Warning! This is a humorous blog. Please keep your comments and suggestions rated G. All ideas are welcome.

For a more serious description of the subject please refer to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bidet

Since Italy is a place where there is a bidet in every bathroom (and sometimes more than one!) it has sparked my warped imagination, as well as the warped imaginations of other expats to speculate about all the various ways we can put these bidets to use.

Even the men enter into this discussion so we are amassing a pretty good variety of ideas. So here goes.

1. Foot washing

This is actually one of the "legitimate" uses of a bidet, though less common that it's original intended purpose. The kind with a drain plug works best so you can fill with nice warm water, put in some scented foot soaking stuff, and there you have a nice relaxing way to give your self a foot bath. Your toilet should be located close enough you can sit on the lid and put your feet in the bidet, but if not, drag a chair into the bathroom and get comfortable.

2. Leg shaving station

This works pretty good too. Fill with hot water, perch your foot on the rim and shave away. You have a way to wash off the razor as you go and do a quick rinse of the legs. Works better for the lower leg than the upper, but with a little experimentation, I will keep most of the water off the floor and in the bowl.

3. Flower soaking station

Johnnie actually discovered this use when he bought a dozen long stem roses to take to our hostess at a dinner party we attended this week. He needed a place to put the flowers and keep them fresh. What a great idea!

4. Plant watering station

My girlfriend suggested this one. Fill bowl with cool water and place your plants that need to be bottom-watered (no pun intended)

5. Planter

This one I have heard many times. Fill with dirt and plant flowers or greenery. Every bathroom can use live plants and they will love the humidity and help to freshen the air. The main issue I see is to be sure and line the bowl with plastic so you don't clog the plumbing with dirt when you leave and have to remove your plants for the next occupant.

This is actually a nice idea for homes that have many bidets -- how many does a person need? -- so leave one for foot washing/leg shaving/plant watering, and turn another into a planter. I like it!

6. Water feature
Get a water pump, fill the bowl and let the fountain burble! Many possibly ways to decorate around your water feature, seasonally appropriate themes or the ever-popular Beach-Tropical Island theme. Especially if we could find a battery operated pump so you don't have an ugly cord strung around your bathroom. Add goldfish, water lilies, rubber duckies, etc.

7. Cat watering hole
Ah, too bad we left our cats in KS. They would absolutely love the idea of their very own, very large water bowl. Now if you combine this idea with #6 above, then they would be beyond ecstatic for their own burbling cat fountain, especially if you stock it with goldfish to play with!

8. Overflow cooler for your drinks at the next party
Fill with ice and drinks. No worry about having to empty water from the cooler as the ice melts.

9. Fruit washing
Take your fruit (or vegetables), rinse, drain. You can even perch a colander across the rim so your produce can drain. The little bidet towels that hang prettily behind the bidet will be handy for placing under your colander as you take your produce to the kitchen sans dribbles.

10. Basin for hand washables
Nice soaking spot for your woolite type items.

Here is a bidet that is in the women's restroom at work. There is one in each stall. What boggles my mind is, there is no soap in the restroom (I take my own), no paper towels for drying your hands (everyone uses toilet paper to dry their hands - yuk), so who/when/why would anyone use a bidet? Can I visualize myself taking soap and towel into the restroom to use the bidet?

Also please notice, no toilet seat. Very common in Italian bathrooms. The rim is clean, but no seat. Hm.

Ok, now it is your turn. Please submit your ideas for 101 things to do with a bidet!