Pets are not treated very well
Don't get me wrong. I am not a person who dressed my cats and dogs in sweaters and let them eat off the table. They are animals, not people. And I didn't baby goo-goo talk to them, and I didn't treat them like my children.
But I do believe in neutering and spaying, giving them their shots, keeping them groomed and free of ticks and fleas, and keeping them well cared for and safe. They are great companions and need attention and love and training so they are not obnoxious to be around and don't destroy stuff.
In Italy, most of the animals seem to run wild without defined owners. There are apparently no leash laws, no active efforts to control the population of strays, and we see sickly and injured animals all the time. People will give them scraps to eat, but there are apparently not many humane societies or adoption homes either. And of course there is dog poop on the sidewalks and in the city parks, etc. Gross! It is all very sad.
Open Burning
Many cities, incuding Naples, open burn their trash. This leaves a horrible black cloud hanging over the city 4 days out of the week. Unless the wind blows or it rains, it is an asthma and allergy nightmare!
Beyond that, the farmers are fixated on burning off underbrush all year round. We thought when we moved to the mountains we would escape the smoke but no, there is always some farmer burning dead brush. Even our neighbor who has maybe a quarter acre garden patch on the edge of the city burns off his garden as well as his trash.
There is no scientific proof that this does anything to control weeds, nourish the soil, prevent disease, or anything, yet it is tradition so people continue to do it. Ugh! At least in the mountains we have wind most of the time that blows it away so we can breathe.
Job Entitlement and Short Term Economic Viewpoint
A socialist government where in large companies most jobs covered by a union contract, lifetime employment is virtually guaranteed. If you lay someone off, you will still pay their wages for years to come. If you try to fire someone for non-performance, even for outright theft, drunkeness on the job, gross violations of safety, non-attendance, etc., you can't get rid of them. The attorneys have advised us that it is virtually impossible to fire anyone in Italy. So what does this all lead to? People in jobs where they show up when they want, don't care about how they behave or perform, no incentive to improve things, customer service is virtually unheard of. Companies are unable to add labor when they need extra capacity because they can never get rid of them later when they don't; and if they are in a downturn, people are on the payroll drawing wages whether there is anything for them to do or not. People's jobs are narrowly defined so it is not like you can have idle workers start painting buildings or cleaning up the grounds. No, that is not in the job description so they are idle.
No one seems to have figured out yet that this whole situation has created an economic environment where businesses lose money and leave Italy because they can't be profitable, nor that the heavy taxation required to pay all these idle people is drawing on a base of working people that is shrinking continually. Nor do they seem to realize the hard working, conscientous works are so frustrated by having to put up with non-performing co-workers that they too are looking for work outside Italy. And we wonder why Italy's economy is in a shambles? Hm, add on a huge layer of political graft, a heavy burden of cost from public welfare programs, and all of a sudden, the picture looks bleak for Italy.
This makes me very sad. The small family owned businesses are the only ones who still try, who still work smart and have customer service. They are shrinking in numbers as the burden of taxation grows. I try to do all my business at the small shops. It is such a nice way of keeping money locally, buying locally grown and made products and knowing the people you deal with. It enhances the feeling of community and I vow to do more of that when I return to the US.
Saturday, January 19, 2013
Friday, January 18, 2013
Things I Love about Italy
As I reflect on daily life in Italy, some things that come to me that I love the most about Italy are the small things, the simple things, things that you might not even notice after they become part of daily life. Some of the things are big things as well, really obvious parts of life that differ. So I want to capture the little things before I forget them, and log the big things as well.
Having a coffee at the Beauty Shop
The wife of my hairdresser greets me with a kiss on each cheek. I have not been in the beauty salon for several months while working in Grottaglie. I am treated like a long-lost cousin. I don't have an appointment but they say to stay and they will take me anyhow. I brought them some tourist materials about Grottaglie and Taranto as the husband had requested this several months ago on the next trip I made there. She tells me what is going on in their family and I tell her about mine. What nice people!
So we chat and she always makes coffee for all the clients in the shop. Coffee is served in small plastic cups about the size of a small bathroom dixie cup, very strong espresso and delivered to each person with a packet of sugar and a small plastic stirring stick. This is our tradition. It is very comforting.
Full Service Gas Pumps
I never did like getting out in the rain and wind and snow to pump my own gas. Then you get gas smell on your hands, and sometimes it splatters on your good clothes. In Italy they still have both self serve and full serve pumps. I always use full serve, pay the extra few cents per gallon, gives someone a job and, I get my windshield washed too! They will even check the oil and the air in your tires if you ask them. Nice!
Waiters, Bell Boys, Conductors, Door Men, and Taxi Drivers Don't Expect Tips
They still are polite, helpful and give good service (most of them) and don't expect a tip. The only exception is the ones at the strictly tourist locales, then they have learned to get the foreigners -- especially Americans -- to give them tips. But in the Italian restaurants and hotels, they don't expect it. Sometimes I do tip, if I get really good service or they go out of their way to help, but even then I don't tip as much as we do in the US. It is kind of refreshing to have people show you kindness and do their jobs without expecting handouts at every turn.
People Are Not Afraid To Touch A Stranger
Italians don't mind being crowded together on an elevator, bus, park bench, doctor office sofa, stadium bleachers, or other public places. They brush up against each other and don't feel like they have to apologize for it. They may bump each other in the store, or going in and out of doors and the like, without apology. It is normal and not something that offends them, nor do they seem to fear it. In the US, I would say "excuse me" if I bumped someone in a store, or I would naturally avoid sitting next to someone where our shoulders had to rub together, unless absolutely necessary. In Italy, they would only say "excuse me" if they really knocked someone and caused pain or they lost balance, not simply because the bodies touched. I am used to the Italian way now, and it seems more natural to me.
Same Gender People can Hold Hands Without Being Homosexual
Mothers and daughters, girlfriends, men that are friends, children of either sex, all are normally seen holding hands, linking arms, walking together in companionship. There is no overtone of homosexually implied or hinted. It is just their way of being together and it is relaxed and shows affection between people. In America, it seems like we have grown so fearful of any kind of touching between same sex or opposite sex, unless they are strictly family or boyfriend/girlfriend. This is especially true in the work place as accusations abound for harassment, and the litigious vultures in our culture have placed fear in our hearts for expressing any kind of human touching or warmth. Kind of sad it has come to that, as touch is one of the important senses and can be the most healing and reassuring of all. I think the Italians have the right of it.
Italian Law Doesn't Protect Idiots From Themselves
In Italy, if you do something stupid, for example, buy fireworks and blow your finger off, well, too bad for you. You should not have done that. You don't get to sue the government, or the fireworks company, or the store you bought it from. That goes for lots of risky behavior, whether it is drinking too much wine, smoking, burning yourself with your barbecue grill, or scalding yourself with a hot cup of coffee you placed between your thighs! The people without common sense will be weeded out of the gene pool in Italy, although there are still plenty left who manage to skate by!
Greetings and Inquiries about the Family Are Sincere
When you meet people in Italy, they are serious about inquiring about your health, your family, and your state of contentment. It is not a casual thing to say, and they all remember the names of your family members, where they live, what is going on in their lives, etc. I have learned to pay more attention to the family members when I am introduced, and to inquire in return about their health and happiness. It comes down to the fact that people don't generally make casual friendships; I don't think that even exists here. People make friends and they are friends -- genuine, life long friends who care about each other and will do for each other as needed. I know I can return to Italy 10 or 20 years from now, and I will still be greeted by these friends as though we parted yesterday. Wow, what a blessing!
I Stay in Better Contact With Friends and Family Around the World
I know this one sounds strange since we are 8000 miles away from most of them in the US now but somehow it seems we are in touch more often and with more people. I think part of it is just the idea that we are so far away, it makes us all realize we need to reach out more. For our children in Wichita, we didn't see them very often before and only called periodically but now we Skype or Facetime regularly. As for friends in Everett and other places, we IM, FB message, email or Skype more often as well. Living in Italy has given us a more "global" mindset about things.
Peppy, Fuel-Efficient Cars
Powerful turbo diesel engines, smooth, tight handling and plenty of creature comforts, I love the cars I have driven in Italy. I have had four in all: Ford Kuja, Nissan something, Mercedes Class A and now my Audi A3 which I dearly love. These same cars are not sold in the US. The Italian versions get super good mileage -- like 50 - 60 mpg. They are all small cars but very well designed and I want to take my Audi home with me but it appears to be very difficult to do that because the US doesn't want these cars. You pay a stiff import penalty plus shipping plus some additional costs to adapt to US type pollution control devices before you can tag it in the US. Sigh.
The Italian Kiss (bacciette) from My Dr.
I really like my orthopedic doctor in Naples. He speaks a few words of English but no matter, he is a good doctor and patient to communicate with me using charades, my limited Italian, and drawing pictures. We have a good relationship and I feel at ease with him. He has been keeping these poor old knees going now for 1 1/2 years and I will miss him. I would actually trust him to do my replacement surgery, if the situation demanded it. Anyway, after I returned from my 3+ month time away down south, I went to get my cortisone injections and he greeted me with the Italian kiss, one on each cheek!! Wow, I am going to tell my US Ortho Dr. that this is how I want to be treated!
Parking Attendants
Parking in Italy is so crazy! There are never enough spaces, and so people double and triple park, wedge into tight places and park on sidewalks and in driveways. Thus arises the need for Parking Attendants. They are self-appointed parking overseers for their businesses or blocks (I have never figured out how that works) and they will help guide you as you park a too-big car into a too-small spot, watch over your car for potential thieves or vandals, help you in and out of your car with packages and stuff, and, they will come get you when the police come along to give you a ticket for being illegally parked so you can hurriedly move your car. For this, you give them 50 cents or a euro, or even 1.50 euro depending on where it is, how helpful they are, and how you are feeling. I have my regular Parking Attendants in the places I go regularly, and they know me, know my walking limitations, and save the best spaces for me!
I have one parking attendant at a medical clinic that is an elderly man -- well into his late 70s I think but I might be fooled by a face lined by weather, poverty and bad health -- and I suspect he has some vision problems due to the the cloudiness in his eyes. He knows me, always greets me and helps me, holds the umbrella over my head when I get in/out of the car, walks me to the door in the rain, and tells me that I am "bella"! You can't beat that! Yesterday he told me that he thinks I am "bella" even if I am fat; he doesn't like skinny women. Wow! That is a complement (I guess) that I was not sure how to take. But he said you have a "bella faccia" (beautiful face) and I look like I am only 50 years old. At least I think that is what he said -- he is missing some teeth and so the pronunciation of some of the *Neopolitan words was throwing me off, so I chose to understand it how I wanted to! I am starting to like this guy more and more :-) Doesn't everyone need a parking attendant like that! (BTW, he knows I am married and has met Johnnie several times so no worries in that department; older Italian men are just like that)
*Neopolitan - Napolitano is a dialect of Italian spoken around the Naples area. It is a mixture of Italian chopped up, and Spanish as far as I can tell.
Having a coffee at the Beauty Shop
The wife of my hairdresser greets me with a kiss on each cheek. I have not been in the beauty salon for several months while working in Grottaglie. I am treated like a long-lost cousin. I don't have an appointment but they say to stay and they will take me anyhow. I brought them some tourist materials about Grottaglie and Taranto as the husband had requested this several months ago on the next trip I made there. She tells me what is going on in their family and I tell her about mine. What nice people!
So we chat and she always makes coffee for all the clients in the shop. Coffee is served in small plastic cups about the size of a small bathroom dixie cup, very strong espresso and delivered to each person with a packet of sugar and a small plastic stirring stick. This is our tradition. It is very comforting.
Full Service Gas Pumps
I never did like getting out in the rain and wind and snow to pump my own gas. Then you get gas smell on your hands, and sometimes it splatters on your good clothes. In Italy they still have both self serve and full serve pumps. I always use full serve, pay the extra few cents per gallon, gives someone a job and, I get my windshield washed too! They will even check the oil and the air in your tires if you ask them. Nice!
Waiters, Bell Boys, Conductors, Door Men, and Taxi Drivers Don't Expect Tips
They still are polite, helpful and give good service (most of them) and don't expect a tip. The only exception is the ones at the strictly tourist locales, then they have learned to get the foreigners -- especially Americans -- to give them tips. But in the Italian restaurants and hotels, they don't expect it. Sometimes I do tip, if I get really good service or they go out of their way to help, but even then I don't tip as much as we do in the US. It is kind of refreshing to have people show you kindness and do their jobs without expecting handouts at every turn.
People Are Not Afraid To Touch A Stranger
Italians don't mind being crowded together on an elevator, bus, park bench, doctor office sofa, stadium bleachers, or other public places. They brush up against each other and don't feel like they have to apologize for it. They may bump each other in the store, or going in and out of doors and the like, without apology. It is normal and not something that offends them, nor do they seem to fear it. In the US, I would say "excuse me" if I bumped someone in a store, or I would naturally avoid sitting next to someone where our shoulders had to rub together, unless absolutely necessary. In Italy, they would only say "excuse me" if they really knocked someone and caused pain or they lost balance, not simply because the bodies touched. I am used to the Italian way now, and it seems more natural to me.
Same Gender People can Hold Hands Without Being Homosexual
Mothers and daughters, girlfriends, men that are friends, children of either sex, all are normally seen holding hands, linking arms, walking together in companionship. There is no overtone of homosexually implied or hinted. It is just their way of being together and it is relaxed and shows affection between people. In America, it seems like we have grown so fearful of any kind of touching between same sex or opposite sex, unless they are strictly family or boyfriend/girlfriend. This is especially true in the work place as accusations abound for harassment, and the litigious vultures in our culture have placed fear in our hearts for expressing any kind of human touching or warmth. Kind of sad it has come to that, as touch is one of the important senses and can be the most healing and reassuring of all. I think the Italians have the right of it.
Italian Law Doesn't Protect Idiots From Themselves
In Italy, if you do something stupid, for example, buy fireworks and blow your finger off, well, too bad for you. You should not have done that. You don't get to sue the government, or the fireworks company, or the store you bought it from. That goes for lots of risky behavior, whether it is drinking too much wine, smoking, burning yourself with your barbecue grill, or scalding yourself with a hot cup of coffee you placed between your thighs! The people without common sense will be weeded out of the gene pool in Italy, although there are still plenty left who manage to skate by!
Greetings and Inquiries about the Family Are Sincere
When you meet people in Italy, they are serious about inquiring about your health, your family, and your state of contentment. It is not a casual thing to say, and they all remember the names of your family members, where they live, what is going on in their lives, etc. I have learned to pay more attention to the family members when I am introduced, and to inquire in return about their health and happiness. It comes down to the fact that people don't generally make casual friendships; I don't think that even exists here. People make friends and they are friends -- genuine, life long friends who care about each other and will do for each other as needed. I know I can return to Italy 10 or 20 years from now, and I will still be greeted by these friends as though we parted yesterday. Wow, what a blessing!
I Stay in Better Contact With Friends and Family Around the World
I know this one sounds strange since we are 8000 miles away from most of them in the US now but somehow it seems we are in touch more often and with more people. I think part of it is just the idea that we are so far away, it makes us all realize we need to reach out more. For our children in Wichita, we didn't see them very often before and only called periodically but now we Skype or Facetime regularly. As for friends in Everett and other places, we IM, FB message, email or Skype more often as well. Living in Italy has given us a more "global" mindset about things.
Peppy, Fuel-Efficient Cars
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| My Audi A3 |
The Italian Kiss (bacciette) from My Dr.
I really like my orthopedic doctor in Naples. He speaks a few words of English but no matter, he is a good doctor and patient to communicate with me using charades, my limited Italian, and drawing pictures. We have a good relationship and I feel at ease with him. He has been keeping these poor old knees going now for 1 1/2 years and I will miss him. I would actually trust him to do my replacement surgery, if the situation demanded it. Anyway, after I returned from my 3+ month time away down south, I went to get my cortisone injections and he greeted me with the Italian kiss, one on each cheek!! Wow, I am going to tell my US Ortho Dr. that this is how I want to be treated!
Parking Attendants
Parking in Italy is so crazy! There are never enough spaces, and so people double and triple park, wedge into tight places and park on sidewalks and in driveways. Thus arises the need for Parking Attendants. They are self-appointed parking overseers for their businesses or blocks (I have never figured out how that works) and they will help guide you as you park a too-big car into a too-small spot, watch over your car for potential thieves or vandals, help you in and out of your car with packages and stuff, and, they will come get you when the police come along to give you a ticket for being illegally parked so you can hurriedly move your car. For this, you give them 50 cents or a euro, or even 1.50 euro depending on where it is, how helpful they are, and how you are feeling. I have my regular Parking Attendants in the places I go regularly, and they know me, know my walking limitations, and save the best spaces for me!
I have one parking attendant at a medical clinic that is an elderly man -- well into his late 70s I think but I might be fooled by a face lined by weather, poverty and bad health -- and I suspect he has some vision problems due to the the cloudiness in his eyes. He knows me, always greets me and helps me, holds the umbrella over my head when I get in/out of the car, walks me to the door in the rain, and tells me that I am "bella"! You can't beat that! Yesterday he told me that he thinks I am "bella" even if I am fat; he doesn't like skinny women. Wow! That is a complement (I guess) that I was not sure how to take. But he said you have a "bella faccia" (beautiful face) and I look like I am only 50 years old. At least I think that is what he said -- he is missing some teeth and so the pronunciation of some of the *Neopolitan words was throwing me off, so I chose to understand it how I wanted to! I am starting to like this guy more and more :-) Doesn't everyone need a parking attendant like that! (BTW, he knows I am married and has met Johnnie several times so no worries in that department; older Italian men are just like that)
*Neopolitan - Napolitano is a dialect of Italian spoken around the Naples area. It is a mixture of Italian chopped up, and Spanish as far as I can tell.
Giving Travel Advice Cautiously to Friends Coming To Italy
Most People Don't Really Want or Need My Travel Advice
What makes a good vacation differs for different people. A lot depends on your stage of life, children/no children, how long you have, how much money you want to spend, whether you like museums and monuments or would rather climb the highest peak. Some people want to pack every day to the brim with tours and activities; others like more white space. We tend to be people who like to take it slowly, savor the moments, wander and linger, and we don't like to have the day filled with scheduled activities. So this is the first problem with giving people advice. If they have different ideas about what is a good vacation, well then our advise is not good for them.
So over the past 1 1/2 years I have learned to give advice very cautiously. People will ask you all kinds of questions but few will take your suggestions, and many will do exactly the opposite! In the beginning I went out of my way to send people information. Then it was a bit disappointing and sometimes even hurtful when people totally disregard what you have told them.
They have an Aunt Suzy that came to Italy for 3 weeks in 1968, or a neighbor that took a organized tour "15 cities in 15 days" last year, or they have a niece that took a summer class in Bologna, well, those people all really know more than we do about traveling in Italy!
Another factor is the wonderful internet. People seem to believe if it is written on the internet it must be true! So most people will spend hours researching what Travel websites say and how they rate the sites and hotels and then follow that advice. Sometimes it is good, and sometimes maybe it is not. People have to realize that the comments are generally really good or really bad; it is those experiences on either end of the spectrum that motivate people to write a comment. Otherwise, everything in the middle goes uncommented and they maybe missing really good, value priced accomodations or great sites off the normal tourist junket.
So after many of these experiences, I will not offer much advice to people who ask. I am careful to say "For the period we lived in Italy, this area was ...." since things do change. If they really ask multiple times, I may offer them an example of some sites we have visited, but beyond that, I recommend people work with a really good travel agent who can taper the itinerary to what they want to see and do. There are good organized tours out there, as long as you don't mind the structure of a group tour. If you don't speak the language and are new to foreign travel, that might be the best way to go for the first trip; get the overview of the country and then later go back on your own once you understand how things work.
We have a really good travel agent I will recommend to anyone who asks. They tend to price high-end tours but will work within a budget if your provide that.The good thing about this agency is that the proprietor is native Italian and knows Italy really well. They are also good at the rest of Europe as well. www.IDVLuxuryTravel.com
WAIT! I just had a revelation! I should put my travel advice on the internet and then I don't have to repeat it and, it will implicitly carry more weight than Aunt Suzy or the neighbor, and since it is on the internet, it will be true!
Telling Me What I Have Missed
The other part of these typical conversations I have with people who have vacationed in Italy before, is the quiz "have you been to the statue of Polyopolis in Modena?" "have you eaten dinner at the Le Comissare Modale on the cliffs of Pescara?", etc. I say "No, really we haven't done much traveling beyond Naples, Rome and xxx...." and they respond "Oh too bad! You should have gone there! You missed the best part of Italy. I was there in 20xx and saw this, that, and the other, and it was marvelous...." and after 20 minutes of hearing their travelogue and how unfortunate I am because I haven't been there, I am thinking huh, "What was the point of this conversation?"
The lesson here, it is good to share travel experiences and share suggestions with others about the things you saw and liked, but this is not a competition about how many places you have been or how cool the monuments are that you saw. Let's be kind, and real people. No fake stuff!
What makes a good vacation differs for different people. A lot depends on your stage of life, children/no children, how long you have, how much money you want to spend, whether you like museums and monuments or would rather climb the highest peak. Some people want to pack every day to the brim with tours and activities; others like more white space. We tend to be people who like to take it slowly, savor the moments, wander and linger, and we don't like to have the day filled with scheduled activities. So this is the first problem with giving people advice. If they have different ideas about what is a good vacation, well then our advise is not good for them.
So over the past 1 1/2 years I have learned to give advice very cautiously. People will ask you all kinds of questions but few will take your suggestions, and many will do exactly the opposite! In the beginning I went out of my way to send people information. Then it was a bit disappointing and sometimes even hurtful when people totally disregard what you have told them.
They have an Aunt Suzy that came to Italy for 3 weeks in 1968, or a neighbor that took a organized tour "15 cities in 15 days" last year, or they have a niece that took a summer class in Bologna, well, those people all really know more than we do about traveling in Italy!
Another factor is the wonderful internet. People seem to believe if it is written on the internet it must be true! So most people will spend hours researching what Travel websites say and how they rate the sites and hotels and then follow that advice. Sometimes it is good, and sometimes maybe it is not. People have to realize that the comments are generally really good or really bad; it is those experiences on either end of the spectrum that motivate people to write a comment. Otherwise, everything in the middle goes uncommented and they maybe missing really good, value priced accomodations or great sites off the normal tourist junket.
So after many of these experiences, I will not offer much advice to people who ask. I am careful to say "For the period we lived in Italy, this area was ...." since things do change. If they really ask multiple times, I may offer them an example of some sites we have visited, but beyond that, I recommend people work with a really good travel agent who can taper the itinerary to what they want to see and do. There are good organized tours out there, as long as you don't mind the structure of a group tour. If you don't speak the language and are new to foreign travel, that might be the best way to go for the first trip; get the overview of the country and then later go back on your own once you understand how things work.
We have a really good travel agent I will recommend to anyone who asks. They tend to price high-end tours but will work within a budget if your provide that.The good thing about this agency is that the proprietor is native Italian and knows Italy really well. They are also good at the rest of Europe as well. www.IDVLuxuryTravel.com
WAIT! I just had a revelation! I should put my travel advice on the internet and then I don't have to repeat it and, it will implicitly carry more weight than Aunt Suzy or the neighbor, and since it is on the internet, it will be true!
Telling Me What I Have Missed
The other part of these typical conversations I have with people who have vacationed in Italy before, is the quiz "have you been to the statue of Polyopolis in Modena?" "have you eaten dinner at the Le Comissare Modale on the cliffs of Pescara?", etc. I say "No, really we haven't done much traveling beyond Naples, Rome and xxx...." and they respond "Oh too bad! You should have gone there! You missed the best part of Italy. I was there in 20xx and saw this, that, and the other, and it was marvelous...." and after 20 minutes of hearing their travelogue and how unfortunate I am because I haven't been there, I am thinking huh, "What was the point of this conversation?"
The lesson here, it is good to share travel experiences and share suggestions with others about the things you saw and liked, but this is not a competition about how many places you have been or how cool the monuments are that you saw. Let's be kind, and real people. No fake stuff!
Wednesday, January 9, 2013
Buon Natale da Italia 2012
A Surprise
The Presepi of Italy
The presepi are nativity scenes and an important part of Christmas tradition in Italy. These are similar to the nativity scenes in American and elsewhere but in Italy are abundant in all shapes, sizes and materials, everything from hand carved wood or hand painted ceramics to the plastic molded type you get from the discount stores.
Elaborate villages of houses and trades people, farm scenes, and background settings exist. Many families put the presepo under the Christmas tree and wait until Dec. 25 to place baby Jesus in the manger. There are individual pieces to many of the precepi so that you buy a few each year and add to a family collection over time. Some also come all in one piece. Many have moving pieces and lights that come on, quite interesting to see. It reminds me of the elaborate snow village scenes you see in the US.
As in the US, the tradition of a scene from the time of Christ has morphed, and now the presepi can be settings from a Medieval time, Victorian era, or some have take on a comical satire with modern day characters dressed in Biblical costumes and settings. For example, I saw the entire Naples soccer team placed in the manger. Or, current world political figures placed among the presepi as well.
Does the Italian presepo diverge from the Biblical Christmas story? Absolutely. Is it wrong? Well, if you take a strict view on the celebration of Christmas then probably 80% of all the modern trappings are not related to the story of the birth of Christ: Santa Claus, stockings, trees, snowmen, candy canes, sleigh rides, jingle bells, reindeer, etc. There are certainly churches all over the world that are taking a stance against the false symbols of Christmas and some forbid their congregations to put up tree, lights, stockings, or to have a presepo, etc.
So the Italians have their traditions that are not related to the birth of Christ either: La befana, presepi, trees, stockings (the stockings here are filled by La Befana on Epifania -- read the link above) etc. but actually, the Italian Christmas is far less commercial over all than in the US. The big "buy, buy, buy" thing is not really that big in Italy. People do give gifts but they tend to be smaller and simpler and just a few. They put up a few lights but electricity is so expensive that maybe one strand of ligths, and just on a few houses. Mostly the lights are put up by the cities. The celebrations here are more about family time and gathering together. When the families come together they spend the entire day together, have the meal together and then play games, or tell stories or watch soccer games -- much like in the US!
Christmas Eve we made a run to the grocery as our frig was empty after traveling over the past 10 days. The store was crowded, like any American grocery the day before a holiday, and the shelves were getting bare. We grabbed the essentials and got in line before they closed early for the holiday. (In Italy they close early on Christmas Eve and don't reopen until 12/27). Our bill came to 80.29 Euro and I handed the cashier two 50's. She wanted to know if I had the 29 cents, so I scrambled through my purse and found 30 cents and we called it good. In the rush to get out, she forgot to give me the 20 Euro back. I didn't realize it until we were home, and figured it was a loss.
On Thursday, 12/27 we were by the store and I told Johnnie to stop. I decided when she balanced her drawer that night she would realize she was over 20 euro, and hopefully remember me (how many American women does she have anyway?). I had my receipt still so went into the store rehearsing how I was going to explain in Italian what happened to see if I could get my 20 euro. Well, Praise the Lord! She remembered me right away and said, (I think) " I owe you 20 euro, just a minute" and she went to the safe, got my 20 euro and then she apologized because she didn't have a way of calling me Monday night to let me know!
Can you imagine?! I was so pleased and thank the Lord for honesty and for the blessing of a small town store where people still know who you are. This is a part of Italy I love.
The Presepi of Italy
The presepi are nativity scenes and an important part of Christmas tradition in Italy. These are similar to the nativity scenes in American and elsewhere but in Italy are abundant in all shapes, sizes and materials, everything from hand carved wood or hand painted ceramics to the plastic molded type you get from the discount stores.
Elaborate villages of houses and trades people, farm scenes, and background settings exist. Many families put the presepo under the Christmas tree and wait until Dec. 25 to place baby Jesus in the manger. There are individual pieces to many of the precepi so that you buy a few each year and add to a family collection over time. Some also come all in one piece. Many have moving pieces and lights that come on, quite interesting to see. It reminds me of the elaborate snow village scenes you see in the US.
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| Three foot tall precepo backdrop of a hillside village |
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| Miniature fruit and vegetables for the precept village scenes |
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| About 3 feet tall, another precepo backdrop, made of painted resin |
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| Caricatures of Political and Entertainment figures: Bill Clinton, Laurel and Hardy, Berlusconi, Obama, etc. |
So the Italians have their traditions that are not related to the birth of Christ either: La befana, presepi, trees, stockings (the stockings here are filled by La Befana on Epifania -- read the link above) etc. but actually, the Italian Christmas is far less commercial over all than in the US. The big "buy, buy, buy" thing is not really that big in Italy. People do give gifts but they tend to be smaller and simpler and just a few. They put up a few lights but electricity is so expensive that maybe one strand of ligths, and just on a few houses. Mostly the lights are put up by the cities. The celebrations here are more about family time and gathering together. When the families come together they spend the entire day together, have the meal together and then play games, or tell stories or watch soccer games -- much like in the US!
Holiday Meal with Friends
I set out to have a traditional Turkey dinner with all the trimmings since we missed that Thanksgiving when we were traveling to Venice. Alas, no turkeys at the store (tacchino inter - whole turkey) as they must be special ordered and not available until after Capodanno (New Year's Eve). So, next best choice was a pork roast which looks good but is small for the 7 people we will have, so picked up a beef rolled roast. Also, couldn't find any sweet potatoes. I was sure I saw them last year but that was probably at the larger Auchon in Napoli. Of course, no marshmallows, no sour cream, no ginger, no nutmeg, no pecans, no oysters, no crab. Hm, what to do?
Here is our menu as it ended up:
Antipasti (Starters)
Fresh veggies with Greek Eggplant dip ( this dip was so-so, needs something)
Ranch dressing ( I have some left and Johnnie requires this. If you ask him what he would take to a deserted island, Ranch dressing would be at the top of his list!)
Turkey meatballs with honey mustard dipping sauce (pretty good)
Mushrooms stuffed with bacon and bleu cheese (these were the big hit of the party -- delicious)
Stuffed mushroom recipe
Prosecco (Italian sparkling white wine)
Main Course (Primi, Segundi and Contorno)
Stuffing (turned out very disappointing -- too salty; I think the instant chicken broth I used is much strong than what we use in the US)
Beef rolled roast (even after marinating, pretty chewy)
Twice baked potato casserole (this turned out good and the Italians like it)
Potato casserole recipe
Green Salad with mandarin oranges, toasted almonds, gorgonzola and vinaigrette (I like the salad but my Italian guests ate only at a little bit, they are used to salad with just plain lettuce and lemon juice or maybe vinegar and oil is all)
Dessert
Pastiera (prepared by the mother of a guest) This is a wonderful Neopolitan dessert, more typical for Easter but Ana makes it year round. I am not sure how it is made but similar to a custard pie and I understand it has Ricotta cheese in it. Wikipedia link
Dessert wine ( made by father of a guest)
Espresso
New Years Day Lunch with Friends
We had a quiet NYE, did Facetime with our friends in Kansas, drank a glass of Prosecco and went to bed at 10pm!
On New Years Day we invited our neighbors to come down for pranzo -- lunch. We really like them, such nice people. We will miss them a lot but they have taught us about being good neighbors and what that means.
Our menu:
Starters
Mushrooms stuffed with bacon and bleu cheese (these were so good on Christmas we had them again!)
Prosecco
Main Course
Gnocchi (Giulianna made this -- yum!)
Chicken Madras ( chicken pieces browned and cooked with diced apple and onion and curry seasoning)
Green salad (they even tried the Ranch dressing)
Negroamaro wine
Dessert
Pumpkin pie (Johnnie made this and it was great)
All in all, it was a wonderful time and great way to start the new year.
After lunch, I am off to Grottaglie again to work, only this time for a few days.
I set out to have a traditional Turkey dinner with all the trimmings since we missed that Thanksgiving when we were traveling to Venice. Alas, no turkeys at the store (tacchino inter - whole turkey) as they must be special ordered and not available until after Capodanno (New Year's Eve). So, next best choice was a pork roast which looks good but is small for the 7 people we will have, so picked up a beef rolled roast. Also, couldn't find any sweet potatoes. I was sure I saw them last year but that was probably at the larger Auchon in Napoli. Of course, no marshmallows, no sour cream, no ginger, no nutmeg, no pecans, no oysters, no crab. Hm, what to do?
Here is our menu as it ended up:
Antipasti (Starters)
Fresh veggies with Greek Eggplant dip ( this dip was so-so, needs something)
Ranch dressing ( I have some left and Johnnie requires this. If you ask him what he would take to a deserted island, Ranch dressing would be at the top of his list!)
Turkey meatballs with honey mustard dipping sauce (pretty good)
Mushrooms stuffed with bacon and bleu cheese (these were the big hit of the party -- delicious)
Stuffed mushroom recipe
Prosecco (Italian sparkling white wine)
Main Course (Primi, Segundi and Contorno)
Stuffing (turned out very disappointing -- too salty; I think the instant chicken broth I used is much strong than what we use in the US)
Beef rolled roast (even after marinating, pretty chewy)
Twice baked potato casserole (this turned out good and the Italians like it)
Potato casserole recipe
Green Salad with mandarin oranges, toasted almonds, gorgonzola and vinaigrette (I like the salad but my Italian guests ate only at a little bit, they are used to salad with just plain lettuce and lemon juice or maybe vinegar and oil is all)
Dessert
Pastiera (prepared by the mother of a guest) This is a wonderful Neopolitan dessert, more typical for Easter but Ana makes it year round. I am not sure how it is made but similar to a custard pie and I understand it has Ricotta cheese in it. Wikipedia link
Dessert wine ( made by father of a guest)
Espresso
New Years Day Lunch with Friends
We had a quiet NYE, did Facetime with our friends in Kansas, drank a glass of Prosecco and went to bed at 10pm!
On New Years Day we invited our neighbors to come down for pranzo -- lunch. We really like them, such nice people. We will miss them a lot but they have taught us about being good neighbors and what that means.
Our menu:
Starters
Mushrooms stuffed with bacon and bleu cheese (these were so good on Christmas we had them again!)
Prosecco
Main Course
Gnocchi (Giulianna made this -- yum!)
Chicken Madras ( chicken pieces browned and cooked with diced apple and onion and curry seasoning)
Green salad (they even tried the Ranch dressing)
Negroamaro wine
Dessert
Pumpkin pie (Johnnie made this and it was great)
All in all, it was a wonderful time and great way to start the new year.
After lunch, I am off to Grottaglie again to work, only this time for a few days.
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